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The train ride was about fifteen hours.  I got on the train at about 10 p.m. and arrived at 1 p.m. the following day.  When I first got on the train, I had the compartment (for 4 people) all to myself.  I was sitting in there, writing and thinking, when a couple of young guys kept passing my open door and pausing.  One of them was wearing a tank top tucked into belted jeans…woo, Russian fashion!  Eventually, they worked up the nerve to talk to me.  After that, they shared some beer with me (I hate beer, so I only had a bit) and taught me how to play backgammon.  Chalk it up to beginners’ luck or the alcohol they were drinking, but I kicked some ass!  Before our game even ended, a grandma named Lyuda joined my compartment.  She was very grandma-ish and praised us for playing backgammon (I think this is opposed to having other pastimes).  She told me about her family and showed me pictures, and later tried to feed everybody.  I appreciated having her there.  She should have arrived in Moscow today, and I wish her the best.

On Tuesday, I presented to a group of university students.  They were shy at the beginning, but once the barrier was broken, they couldn’t control themselves.  I think I need to have some tricks in mind to deal with this sort of thing!  Then, I was supposed to have a discussion with professors in the English department, but instead, a newspaper reporter showed up and asked me questions for half an hour.  Then, the photographer came.  So, we ended up just going out to dinner.  

On Wednesday, I gave three workshops to teachers at the retraining institute (like in the US, teachers must occasionally take some classes to maintain their teaching certification).  They went fairly well.  I was surprised by the feedback I got though - better than I had expected.  It’s one of the major cultural issues for me - that I have to figure out how teachers work here and how I can help them.  It’s a process and I don’t expect to do perfectly at the beginning, but I’m starting to get a feeling for what I can do.  I went out for dinner again, and had a wonderful time.

On Thursday, Thanksgiving, I had asked to visit an elementary school.  It was precious to visit the school.  The students and teachers are clearly doing some very good things.  The students also gave me a tour of the school.  They have a doll museum.  If any of you visit me, I might ask you to bring a doll to donate to the museum.  They also make their own stuffed animals.  They gave me an adorable little chick as a souvenir - it’s amazing that it was made by an elementary school student!  There is a little “pet corner” with a snake (eek!), hamsters, birds, turtles, etc.  It is clear that education is a priority for these people!  After that, some of the university students gave me a tour of the city.  What is a Russian town without a cathedral:

I also made a new friend:

And some other new friends.  This picture represents only a small sample of the population that we fed.  Poor little guys were so hungry and cold that they ran up to every person who walked through the park:

Again, I received some lovely gifts - a clock written in Hebrew, a photo album with pictures of Birobidzhan, and some chocolate.  Yumm!  I also bought myself some interesting varieties of vodka.  On the left is one made in Birobidzhan called ‘Jewish Happiness’.  On the right is one flavored with pine.  Interesting, huh?

The trip home was rather appalling.  I got on the train, only to find my compartment a disaster.  It looked as if four bachelors had been partying it up in there for a month.  They hadn’t cleaned anything up - not even the bedding, which they are supposed to do before getting off the train.  I had a horrified look on my face when word got to the only person left in that compartment that there was a girl in the compartment.  He came scrambling in and started cleaning.  There were empty bottles everywhere, half-eaten dried fish and other things, lemon rinds on the floor and everywhere else.  It was a disaster.  So, I decided that I would take it all in good humor and joked with the attendant (an older woman) that there must have been four men in there.  I also started downing some vodka (see above).  After he did a decent job of cleaning, Vasya, my compartment-mate decided in his drunken state that he must hit on me.  Ugh.  I held my own.  But, I didn’t sleep more than a touch here and there, as I was afraid that I would wake up in a bad situation.  Perhaps the worst part of it, for me, was that he tried to give me money in the morning.  I can handle sleazy drunk men, but I don’t appreciate being treated as if I can be bought.

Well, since coming back, I’ve been doing the regular things.  On Friday morning, I had a video date with my family, as they celebrated Thanksgiving.  They got together on Friday to accommodate all of the families.  This is my experience of it:

 I went to a concert on Saturday night.  I managed to pick up a cold.  I had a sore throat starting on Friday.  The funny thing is that when I was sitting in that nasty train compartment, I told myself that I would catch something in there…and here I am!

Now, I’m listening to Christmas music.  I’m so glad to have Christmas music, especially since I miss so many other aspects of Christmas.  I guess I get Christmasy weather this year, at least!  The music is reminding me of being in Korea and the elementary school kids.  We sang Bing Crosby’s Jingle Bells - the kids thought I was crazy, but after we sang it, they wanted to sing it over and over and over.  I also taught them how to Jitterbug to some Christmas carols.  We had so much fun!  I hope all of the kids are doing well now!  I hope they love English and culture and things like that!

Miss you all!